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Use your scrap flat stock again and make a lower 
fender-mounting tab. 
I have seen bikes built without anything securing them at the front bottom but I know from experience that 
the fender will vibrate and crack; it’s just a matter of time. Do it right! You will be riding this bike.

I don’t like drilling on the weld in the center of the fender. It creates a stress point that can be avoided. I prefer to have a bracket bolted to each side of the weld, although a simple piece of aluminum angle will work just as well if you choose the center-hole method.
An often-overlooked item is the rear wiring. That’s because most of the stuff you see on TV doesn’t have turn signals and most often the taillight is mounted on the side of the frame. Having no turn signals is illegal regardless of what state you live in. It’s a federal requirement that all new vehicles have turn signals to even be offered for sale.
Duct tape just doesn’t cut it! I’ve seen many bikes using this and / or silicone to hold wires and eventually it gives way allowing the wires to fall onto the tire and be ground up.
Remember, you are going to ride this bike, so make a trip to NAPA or your favorite auto parts store and get some steel fuel line. It fits nicely inside the fender lip and makes the fender look like it has a rolled edge once it’s welded into place and molded in.
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I think it adds a touch of class, not to 
mention how easy it will be to put the 
wires through and keep them safe. This 
is one of those pre-planning things that 
will save you lots of grief later on. 
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Using more scrap, you’ll need to make a piece to mount the voltage 
regulator to. Then make a couple of pieces about 1-1/4” long for sissy bar 
mounts. You’ll also need to make rear passenger peg mounts as well. 
Get them welded on before you do a final pre-build. 
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