114
Install your fork stops, grease the bearings and slide the front fork 
into the neck just as you did before. Snug up the stem nut and then 
back it off just a little. 

Too loose and you’ll end up with a high-speed wobble. Too tight and 
it will be hard to steer. To err on the side of snug is better than on the 
side of loose. Turn the fork back and forth until it’s just right. You have lots of time so use it. 
This is a very important part of the assembly. 

115
Installing the handlebars is quick and easy with 
the Paughco adapter plate. You can use any 
standard risers or T-bars with 3-1/2” spacing 
available from Paughco for use on their springer forks. 

Even though the bolts probably won’t show unless you look for them, I’ve used Gardner-Westcott chrome 
flathead bolts.

If you are cutting corners, this is one of the few places you could use black bolts, but then I don’t like cutting 
corners. I want the whole bike to look the best it can, even in those hidden spots.

Scrape the paint off of the place where the motor bolts into the frame as well as where the transmission 
plate bolts to the frame. If you don’t, the paint will eventually mushroom out and the motor and tranny will 
be loose causing lots of vibration. You also won’t have a very good ground for your electrical circuit.

You can set the motor into place at this time. Be sure to have someone help you with this. Put the bolts 
through the holes and put the nuts on but not tight. 

It’s a good idea to tape the frame down-tubes and set a towel in front and behind where the motor goes, 
especially over the bottom of the frame prior to getting the motor near anything.

Next, loosely bolt in the transmission plate as before and then set the transmission into the plate and 
secure with flange nuts. Remember, don’t tighten anything at this time.

Now bolt the primary drive plate into position with the front motor spacer installed as well. Just put the 
front bolts through the holes, but get the back ones started that go into the transmission. Snug them 
up and see if the front holes line up. If they line up and the motor bolts go in easily, you’re good to go. 
If not, check to see what you need to do. Look at the motor case holes with a flashlight to determine if 
you need to lift the front of the transmission or the back. You can slide a feeler gauge under the tranny 
to see what you will need. With this frame I needed to use a .030 shim under both front transmission 
studs between the tranny and top of the mounting plate for a proper fit.

You can use washers or shims to complete the assembly, as you do not want to force anything into 
place. In this case, I just happened to have some old gas tank and brake shims so it was easy for me, 
but shim stock is available at most NAPA auto parts stores. Finding the right thickness is the challenge. 
This is a place where the right tool comes in handy again. You can buy a cheap caliper for about $10 
at many tool shops.