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Tie a piece of wire to the string. A piece from the mig-welding 
spool works well here. 

Note the piece welded over the wiring slot. This was needed 
because of the way slide-on handlebar controls tighten to the 
bars. The locking bolts kept sliding into the dimples. The 
locking mechanism would not allow for the proper angle of 
the levers, considering our rake and stretch. I cut a couple of pieces of 1” round pipe to fill in the slot where 
the bolts tighten against the bar. A piece of an old bent 1” handlebar works really well and almost any shop 
has some around that they will give you. It’s simple, fast and effective. 

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Using "Fat", 1-1/4” handlebars and most custom handlebar controls will require 
a bit of thought. There is a space between the grips, the switches and the holes 
for running the wires in the bar holes and the fat part of the bar. Depending on 
the brand of bar you use, you may want to make some 1-1/4” spacers to cover the 
bar here. 

If you use Khrome Werks bars, their quality-tapered, finished and polished chrome bar requires nothing 
and will look just fine in any application. They are also resized at the dimples, prior to chroming, to 
accommodate the slide-on controls. A definite plus, which will save you a bunch of work with a file or 
grinder.

If you use the Performance Machine petite controls you’ll have the same situation but they make spacers 
to use with the 1-1/4” fat bars to cover these open places.

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Look how nice this all looks once completed. The mirrors came from Supreme 
Legends and matched our BDL levers exactly. I guess I’m just a stickler for 
having things match and flow.

The grips from J-Brake are comfortable, match the foot pegs and give us control. 
They are chromed so you don’t get that aluminum black hand when riding.