138
Tape and cut the hose to proper length. Remove the hose and install the fitting on the
cut end. Again, it’s important to measure twice and cut once. It’s much cheaper and
easier to do the job right the first time instead of buying more parts and having to
do it again.
* IMPORTANT * Don’t forget to blow out the lines prior to final installation as there will be dirt and hose particles in
them which could contaminate the oil, thus damaging the motor.
139
Do all of the hoses
and you will have a
very nice finished
product. I absolutely
guarantee it will look
better than hose clamps
with covers.
140
Install the rear brake
line and run it to the
brake tee using the
Russell banjos, bolts
and aluminum crush
washers. It’s up to you
to make the routing of
the lines look good.
141
When you did the pre-build on your project, you should have installed the
brakes and measured for the lines. These are Russell Performance braided,
coated, stainless brake lines. Now is the time to install them. I used Joker
Machine billet “G” clamps (#04-29) to secure them into place giving the bike
a nice finished look. This way it doesn’t look like you just threw the bike together.
You actually put some thought into it. Take the time and make the effort. This is
the difference between a quality bike and a “just built” bike. These are the details that you never see
on TV and seldom see on the bikes in shows. Again, I emphasize that you will be riding this bike, so
make it right.
142
The rear line runs into the brake tee mounted on the end of the transmission
case. I installed a chrome 45-degree fitting from Gardner-Westcott into the
brake-tee to give the brake light wires clearance, which were too close to the frame.
